Kenny Klimes

Oh MO MO, you must be bored!!  But then so am I so I’ll answer.

1. The general rule is 1 1/2 times the depth of the water.  It will take time for your flies to sink (use weight commensurate with the depth and speed of the current). And with the indicator “pulling” your flies along they will probably never float directly under your indicator but always slightly behind – allowing the extra length of the leader to “not’ touch the bottom.

2. Great question. Yes, you should use specific types of indicators for specific conditions. As a general rule – smallest indicator possible for the situation.  More weight then the larger the indicator – don’t allow your small indicator be pulled halfway or more under water by your weighted flies or split shot. It will lose it’s sensitivity to a strike. So, if you have to add more weight to get your flies down, i.e. deep water, fast current then you need a larger indicator.  Clear, shallow water smaller indicator – yes, the indicator can spook the fish!  Maybe a white New Zealand yarn indicator to look more like the “white foam” on the water or a clear thingamabob indicator to look like an air bubble from below the surface. DON’T Forget – dry flies can be very effective indicators too

3. White or clear

4. Dead drifting flies (not tight line nymphing – which is another topic) use an indicator to help you realize a strike. Flies without beadheads, two fly rig, flies with beadhead, etc… if not tight lining then I’d use an indicator to help detect the strike.

5. Fast moving waters and deep holes with heavy flies, I like the thingamabobber.  The most sensitive indicator I’ll go with the New Zealand system for clear, slower water.

6. Yes, the number one tip when fishing indicators is SET THE HOOK!!  When that indicator does ANYTHING different from it’s normal flow through the water surface – slows, stops, jiggles, – ANYTHING – then set the hook. Hook sets are free. I see too many guys miss fish because they expect the indicator to go under water. The trout takes in their fly and in seconds spits it out and the indicator continues on it’s way downstream…. and no fish.

Hey Timmy!  I like Buffalo Trace too!!

Gabby is a known closet fly tying video watcher!!

Haakeg,

You have received some great advice. I recommend taking up Terry’s offer of a beginner’s class, attend the Thursday fly tying sessions and pick out just a couple of flies to start tying. The woolybugger and the midge larva would be a good place to start. Buy just the materials for those flies and learn how to tie them. Tools: Good equipment is important – don’t need the top of the line. scissors, a couple of bobbins, threader, bead tweezers, hackle pliers, bodkin, a martinelli whip finisher and a few others that the FATC can tell you about. Have fun with it.

Bill

When you add a link for someone to go to read or view use the link button (second from the end) on the menu above when you are typing your message.

https://news.orvis.com/fly-fishing/classic-tip-what-makes-good-stream-etiquette?fbclid=IwAR0heSkHX_kqzi8Y47nWb4Lhxbl3jON_R0VZcObUlxbvf8VeC7NXcPGouXk

Like this and it will be easier for guys to go to and read.

🙂

Great way to tie them in.

Bill

We used black ones (they adsorb heat) that you buy at an automotive store or Lowes/Home Depot. They lasted the entire day of fishing and I put mine in the wash and dryer – they are still as good as new.

K

Haage

This year the hatchery put red/orange “tattoo” marks just behind the left eye for all browns that will be stocked this year in the Meramec river. (i.e. October 2018 – February 2019)