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Kenny Klimes
KeymasterI attach with a Double Davy knot. It’s small and holds well.
But when I “swing” two flies I will usually set them up by using the tag end for the dropper fly similar to how ESN fly fishers tie two flies on. If I use a dry on the dropper or top fly with a nymph or larva below I will attach the nymph/larva to the barbless hook.
KeymasterYou should not have problems with the dropper fly coming off the dry fly (barbless) when a fish is on. Keep the pressure on the fish and it should not. Once you “release” any pressure on the dropper fly then the fish may come off with a barbless hook. I do not lose fish with barbless hooks when I keep the pressure on. Most fly fishers I see on the water do not realize the amount of pressure they can put on a fish and not break off. Break offs happen during the initial hook set (too hard by the fly fisher) or pressure is released slightly and the fish shakes it’s head or the fish jumps and spits out the hook again because pressure is released. My point is keep using the barbless hooks but work at keeping the pressure on (rod at approximately 45 – 30 degrees). I see many fly fishers holding their rod almost vertical when fighting a fish. The more vertical the less pressure on the fish. See if that helps not losing fish.
KeymasterBob-STL
The short answer is yes. But not necessarily what you think. Most of the time “jig” style hooks are made with a wider gap than “normal” hooks. So in my humble opinion I say yes to wide gap hooks over “regular” gap hooks. The majority of the hooks I use when I tie are wide gap hooks, whether they are curved, straight shank or jig style. Most companies that sell flies will use hooks with “normal” gaps. If you tie then I would buy wide gap hooks. I usually use wide gap hooks from Firehole Outdoors (one of our sponsors). They are called Firehole Sticks and they are sharp and barbless – all I use is barbless.
So in a nutshell, your problem could be your hook set but I think that wide gap hooks will improve your hook set and catch rate. It has mine.
KeymasterHey Gang, one additional thing to add when it comes to having a trout “permit” during the winter fishing. If you have a Missouri Lifetime Fishing license then the trout permit IS included with this fishing license. But if you bought a “yearly” Missouri fishing license (resident or non-resident) you must also purchase a trout permit with it if you will fish in the Missouri State parks during the catch and release season AND if fishing outside the parks and possessing trout.
KeymasterGentlemen
Even though you “think” you are setting the hook “on time”, you may not be. Often when fish are foul hooked it is because you are late with the set. A trout can take in a fly and decide it’s not good in just seconds. That is why when using an indicator you must set when the indicator shows the slightest change in its “float” downstream. This is why euro-styling nymphing is so successful. Think about it. If you do euro- style nymphing you are “directly” attached or connected to the fly. So when a fish takes your fly you will “know” sooner than if it were connected to an indicator. An indicator is connected directly to the fly (not you) and can give you an indication of a strike much later. So the fish takes the fly with an indicator then spits it out but you see the indicator stop, you set the hook when the fly is still close to the fish but no longer in the fish’s mouth. and ends up “foul hooking” the fish. Best way to not foul hook so much when using the indicator is to set the fly/hook when ANYTHING different happens to the indicator as it floats downstream. Hook sets are free. Do them. Often!!
KeymasterBruno
Glad to have you aboard! If you stick with floating line but want to get into “deep pools” I would advise buying a “sinking poly” leader to add to your fly line. It’s considered the poor man’s sinking tip line when you can’t afford a sinking tip line of just want to make a quick change. It will help get your flies down even though you are using a floating line. Then the leaded flies you would use can either be ones with bead or cone heads or lead wire wrapped around the shank of the hook if you are a fly tier. As far as flies woolybuggers, sculpin patterns and crayfish patterns would do great. Check out our most recent smallmouth trip in our trips page. We used and were very successful with the fly called the meat-whistle.
Hope this helps!!
K
KeymasterThis question is always up there with the question of “what is our purpose in life”. Ok, not really but close. I am not a minimalist. Especially when it comes to fly boxes and flies. I normally carry five to six fly boxes with me on every trip (and sometimes more that I leave in the car but can get to if needed).
BUT truly do you need to “carry” that many flies? Yes, there are probably no more than 12 flies that you need to carry (different sizes is important) which will suffice for any trip. Those flies you will have to decide on. The reason I say that is you must also have confidence in your flies. For example, I do not have ANY confidence in the famous Missouri Crackleback fly. I carry them but hardly ever take them out of my box. But you will never find me without the Barr’s emerger fly.
Find your top confidence flies, different sizes is good. Maybe a few different colors and go with 4-6 flies each. If you run out on the water then you’ll know you should have brought more 😉
I think it is also important how you arrange your flies in your fly boxes. Same insects together whether larva/nymphs, emergers and then adults? or all larva/nymphs together in one box and adult dry flies in another, etc.. Don’t agonize over it – just fish.
KeymasterWell, if it’s the “bootie seam”. You may be out of luck and have to buy new waders. Almost impossible to fix the seam where the booties meet the waders. New special glue for that and not worth it.
KeymasterThanks Steve,
Covid did slow us down some but it did not knock us out. We are now getting back on track. So wake up FATC!! Get off the recliner and get back out there where “life” truly is. I can’t say it enough but we, as men and brothers, need each other. It is written that, “As Iron sharpens iron, so one person sharpens another.”
KeymasterMike,
Thanks for the information. I have seen Davy Wotton’s presentation and it’s always informative. Keep us informed on the Sow Bug and other fly fishing events in your area. I have to get down there and soon. Save me a bed!!
KeymasterDan,
I love fishing with the Barr’s Emerger fly – one of my favorite flies when the trout are rising! The Barr’s Emerger calls for Wood Duck feathers which duck hunters in our area shoot when in season. A bag of these feathers is a godsend. They are the ones that have “barred” stripes on them. BUT Mallards have a similar “striped” flank feathers that work just as well. If you aren’t friends with a Duck Hunter you ought to be!!
KeymasterDave,
First, if you never have tried to “Aqua Seal” your waders I would do that first before I would buy new ones.
(But if that doesn’t work I always think it is best to save a few extra pennies and then buy a good pair of waders – waders of your choice but a good pair. Which could run you anywhere from $250 – $500. Yes, that’s a lot but my first pair of Simms I had for over 12 years – of course I had to repair leaks here and there throughout the years but the fit and quality are above and beyond other waders.)
Now, take you waders and figure out which leg was leaking. Turn the waders inside out. If both legs are leaking, then you will have to work on both but I recommend one at a time. I strap my waders to a ladder just so the wader booties just touch the ground. Then I pull one leg up and leave the other hang down to the ground. With a hose “in” the leg hanging down (remember inside out) fill the leg with water up to the crouch. Get a Sharpie and watch for any leaks – a pin hole leak could take awhile before it starts to drip. Circle the area with the Sharpie that is leaking. Then reverse the legs and do the procedure all over again – mark leaks with a Sharpie. Make sure your waders are dry and (still inside out) use a tube of Aqua Seal and an “acid brush” to smooth the Aqua Seal over the leak. You don’t need a lot of Aqua Seal – just enough to cover the leak area – and smooth with the acid brush. Let it dry. If you have multiple leaks be careful with the Aqua Seal and make sure it doesn’t touch anything for 24 hours – this means you may have to add Aqua Seal a little at a time and wait for it to dry, i.e. if your wader leg needs Aqua Seal on both sides just do one side (front or back) at a time.
Once dry then you can use your waders on the river to “test” them out. If the leaks are too much or the seams are coming apart – then it’s time to spend some money!
August 15, 2022 at 6:21 pm in reply to: Good spots for fishing without waders when it’s cold? #25178KeymasterJake,
Glad you found our forum and I am sure you will get a lot of suggestions to your answer. But first, I have to ask you why not join our fellowship!! We take fly fishing trips all over the United States and many in Missouri. Check out our website’s “Trips” page and you will see our fellowship fishes at least once a week. We have 220 members now with some all over the US (Colorado, Illinois, Michigan, North Carolina, Florida – just to name a few states). We also have many classes, events, discounts on gear, etc… To join let us know and we will send you all our info. Dues are just $30 for two years and you get many classes, trips and events for free as a member.
If interested please go to our menu on our Home page and select the About menu. At the bottom you will see the Contact Us page. Fill out the info and we will get right back to you. Now if you are truly interested in learning fly fishing we have a very comprehensive fly fishing class that will be starting up in October (every Tuesday). Our class is four 2-hour indoor classes, one 2-hour casting class and then a day one-on-one on the river with an instructor. This class is only $40 (similar class that Orvis charges $500 to attend). But there are only 12 slots available and it fills fast. Right now we only have three slots open. If interested we will send you info on the class but you have to be a member first.
We are not a “club” but a 501c3 non-profit organization that stresses brotherhood, charity and community service. So we do a lot more than just fishing. We are the largest fly fishing organization in Missouri. So as our motto says, “It isn’t just about the fly fishing” holds true (but we do fish a lot).
Reference your question and others may chime in too. Many of our guys this summer have been wet wading which means you can fish all the rivers in Missouri without waders but…. When the winter catch and release season arrives in November the waders do come on (of course with underwear underneath!). We do have many sponsors that give us a discount on gear so we may be able to guide you in a good direction for gear.
Hope to hear more from you and hope you decide to join our fellowship.
All our best to you,
Kenny Klimes, FATC – Chairman of the Board
KeymasterAl,
Obviously there are many options with all of this “Euro-Nymphing” and the leader types are constantly changing. The latest from the “pros” is to go thin – a very thin leader (called the micro-leader). A 10 – 12 feet leader of just 4x then a tippet ring to 6x – 7x tippet anywhere from 5 – 10 feet long depending on how deep you are fishing. (I find most guys tie too little tippet on thinking they are “on the bottom”). Then there are what Devin Olsen calls heavy leader and medium leader – check out his article on his website – Tactical Fly Fisher.
But I didn’t really answer your question. To start out with Euro-nymphing I agree with Jim Craig. Try floating line first to see it you “like” the Euro-style. Plus you can change easier if you want to switch flies and how you fish. The Euro fly line is basically a level line, i.e. the same diameter throughout – no taper. This can be difficult to throw dry flies or streamers if you change your techniques during your day of fishing. Using a taper fly line (weight forward) you can pull off your euro-leader and add a normal leader to your weight forward line and you are back in business.
KeymasterYes, I am the keeper of the rods. Just arrange with me a time to cast them. Also Woolybugger Fly Co is selling Snowbee rods that we can get hold of and receive a discount as members in the FATC.
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