It’s NOT about the numbers, but here are a few…16 days, 5 states, 2,500 miles, 7 lodging stops, 9+ fly shops, 200+ elk, high water temperatures (Arg!) and countless adventures and fish.

In February 2021, Colorado FATC member Tim Graham began to plan his dream retirement trout fishing trip. I, Jim Craig, got a call from him at the end of March, in which he laid out his grand plan. He had prepared a detailed itinerary to travel and fish the Rocky Mountain Fly Highway, US Route-20, and he invited me! Of course I said YES! See “Master Plan”and “Map” below and https://tubitv.com/movies/466673/the-rocky-mountain-fly-highway.

Our plan was to fish, explore the area’s natural wonders, and scout these legendary waters for other FATC members to plan their own trips. And so we did! Lesson #1. Research, plan, prepare and pick great travel partners.

Tim picked me up at the Denver airport at 6:35 AM on July 5th. After a short stop at his house in Windsor, CO, to double-check and pack our gear, we began our trip on day 24 of Tim’s retirement. We drove 451 miles to our first overnight in Dubois, WY. (Pronounced “Du Boys”. Ask any local.) This location was just an overnight stop on our way to our first fishing location in West Yellowstone, MT. The Stage Coach Inn was a no-frills, comfortable motel with a very welcoming staff. The town had a nice assortment of local restaurants and a great coffee shop. After we planned our trip, we learned this area, called the Wind River area, also has great fly fishing. A short stop in a local fly shop confirmed that. We would certainly consider fishing this area in the future. It was here we met the most colorful character of our odyssey. Johnny was a Harley-riding, fly-fishing, head-banging, millionaire (we assumed), hardcore patriot. We sat at an outdoor table with him as he spent over an hour telling us about his life (which was incredibly colorful), giving us directions for where to fish in the places we were going, and showing us which flies to use. He and his girlfriend were on an extended Harley riding fly-fishing trip. There were lots of Harley riders along the way, but none like Johnny. Lesson #2: Be friendly and you might be amazed at who you meet.

The drive to our campsite on July 6th in West Yellowstone was spectacular. We traveled route 287 north through the Grand Teton NP. We were awestruck by the Tetons. It was a perfect day to see Jenny Lake. The mirror reflection of the Tetons on the lake was iconic. Continuing north we drove through Yellowstone NP until we exited the park at West Yellowstone, MT. Following highway 287 we arrived at our campsite in the Cabin Creek campground in MT with plenty of time to set up camp and explore the creek that ran across the back of our campsite. We hiked the creek-side trail well up into the wilderness until it stopped. We were trying to reach a likely brook trout area of this creek Tim had spotted from an aerial map of the area, but we just couldn’t get to it….next time. Lesson #3: Take time to enjoy the ride and explore.

The morning of July 7th we spent learning the area from our campground south to Island Park and Last Chance, ID. We got directions from several fly shops in the area and decided to fish the canyon area of Henry’s Fork that afternoon until a thunderstorm shut us down. We learned the Henry’s Fork was running high and warm, so fishing had been tough. We did OK that afternoon hooking fish on a hare’s ear, zebra midge, and Tasmanian devil. Most of all, we were surprised how shallow this big river was. Lesson #4: Your FATC flyfishing knowledge works on even the most technical rivers.

July 8th we packed up our camp in the dark about 4 AM in order to meet our guide Justin Skenandore (916-778-7057) early at Henry’s Lake. From local reports we learned the heat had really slowed down the lake fishing. We gave it our best, casting sinking lines, slowly stripping caddis larva flies, fishing lots of spots, and drinking lots of water in the heat. The caddis hatch was ridiculous. The adult insects covered the boat. Evidently the fish were moving slowly and were well fed. We hooked only two fish with one getting away when a hook broke. The one we netted was one of the legendary Henry’s Lake cutthroat hybrids. The slow fishing allowed for lots of time to quiz our guide about other fishing spots in the area. After fishing that day, we had time to do some more exploring. We drove to the Big Springs, the headwaters of the Henry’s Fork. The springs were crystal clear, and large trout could be spotted in this no-fishing area. We spent the next two nights at the Drift Lodge in Island Park, ID. After we checked in that evening, Justin came by our cabin to write down all the locations and recommended flies we talked about in the boat that day. It was a treasure chest of knowledge. That information led us to little known fishing locations the next two days. Lesson #5: When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

Following Justin’s advice, on July 9th we headed off to fish Cliff Lake, MT. After crossing the famous $3 Bridge over the Madison River, we drove several miles on a dirt road until we arrived at a beautiful, spring fed lake. The crystal-clear water and aqua blue color along the shore made it look like a white sand Caribbean beach. Check out the pictures. However, the heat was on, and the fire risk was high. Just before we arrived, a fire had started over the near ridge along another lake. We were told that 100+ firefighters were already in the area and we were in a state of pre-evacuation. If the Forest Service told us to leave, we had to go immediately. Although we watched the smoke plume grow bigger and bigger all day, we never had to evacuate.

The fishing was challenging. Following Jason’s advice, we fished hopper-droppers and dry-droppers all day. The fish came up from very deep to hit the dries-what a surprise, but none would hold on, not even the ones that were well-hooked. These were very strong fish. As we walked back to our car on a road overlooking the lake, we spotted a bunch of fish just below us. We found a path down to the shoreline and started working them. There were lots of rises, but we didn’t have what they wanted. After switching to a wooly bugger and a crayfish pattern, we tricked a couple. Still, very tough fishing, but what a beautiful lake and with today’s experience, we know much better now how to fish it next time. Lesson #6: Never take your eyes off the lake.

July 10th we packed up and left the Drift Lodge and decided to fish in Yellowstone NP. A number of the rivers in the park were too warm to fish, but the Gibbon River was reported to be cooler and producing some fish. We entered thru the town of West Yellowstone and navigated to the Gibbon River on Jason’s recommendation and also on the advice of the Drift Lodge Fly Shop where we were staying. The shop manager informed us that he had just sent two guided groups there that morning. We fished the Gibbon for about 4 hours, it is a beautiful, meandering meadow stream in the area we fished. We tried a variety of dry dropper rigs and a few smaller fish were caught, but not the action we were hoping for. We visited with the Drift Lodge guides and clients on their way back to their vehicles and they were not able to catch much either. Our next stop was the Madison River at Bakers Hole. The Madison is a much larger river which required a certain amount of determination to wade fish. We were ready with our bear spray, but praying there would be no sightings. Bakers Hole is where a local fishing guide was mauled to death this spring…he was found with bear spray in his hand. Throughout this part of the trip we both carried bear spray on our hip anytime we stepped out of the vehicle and routinely yelled “hey bear” when walking thru the bush. There are three holes to fish on the Madison at Bakers Hole. We tried #1 with no luck, then drove over to fish #2. It was a promising hole with a long run/riffles and a nice pool below. While we were getting ready to walk from the parking area to the river, three large SUV’s raced up and parked. After the fellas scouted the river they stopped by our bench and said they had a large party and planned to swim there. They did ask if that was going to be a problem for us…what could we say, so we shared the river with about 15 swimmers, mostly small children. We hooked up with some large fish but could bring none to our nets.

After a little while fishing below our new friends we decided it was time to drive over to Harriman Ranch SP and prepare for our hike into the backcountry, before dark. Hiking in after dark in bear country was not something we wanted to risk. I can’t possibly explain the history of the park in this trip report so do yourself a favor and Google it. The nicest lady, presumably Native American, checked us in at the park headquarters. She gave us very clear and detailed information about the next four nights we would stay in the Becker Yurt and directions for the 1.5 mile hike through their horse pasture to get there. We carried in everything we needed and boiled water we collected from the nearby spring creek. I can’t think of any cooler place I have ever camped. During the winter the Becker Yurt is used as a warming hut for cross-country skiers. The yurt had a large deck that looked out over a huge meadow with a spring creek. You could sit and watch the wildlife come and go. The highlight occurred one night after dinner when 200+ elk moved in to graze in the meadow. Each night and before we left the yurt each day, we put all our food and toiletries in the bear box behind the yurt. We were in prime grizzly bear habitat and acted accordingly. A sow and her cubs were spotted in the park a week or so prior to our arrival. Lesson #7 When in grizzly country, be prepared, stay together and be bear aware.

July 11th we enthusiastically hiked out of the yurt in anticipation of our guided trip on Henry’s Fork (of the Snake River) with guide Andy Jenkins (650-464-2605). We had had some challenging days, and were ready for someone else to do the thinking. We met him at Henry’s Fork Angler Fly Shop in Island Park, ID. From there we were off to fish the 7-mile section from the confluence with the Warm River to the take out just above Ashton, ID. It was a great day. Andy showed us a unique nymphing rig that caught us lots of fish on Pat’s rubberleg and a variety of smaller bead head nymphs under an indicator. Tim hooked a couple big browns that really got our blood flowing. But, they had the advantage in the fast current. Although we got a glimpse of them, they will remain the subject of our speculation over size. We just know they were BIG. Lesson #8: Guides are a wise choice to up your local fishing knowledge and break up a long trip.

July 12th we took Jason’s advice again and headed out to fish Sheridan Lake and Sheridan Creek in Island Park, ID. This is private water at the 2,000 ac. Eagle Ridge Ranch, that required we pay our rod fee ahead of time to get two of the twelve slots per day. Fortunately, it could all be done online. The lake and creek contain Kamloop rainbow trout. These broad shouldered, brightly colored fish are known for their fight. The lake is about 200 acres and the nearby, but separate creek, is about half as wide as Montauk. But, wow, the lake and creek held monster trout. Unfortunately, we learned you need to get there early. By the time we figured out where the place was and where to fish, other fishermen had the place covered. We started by using one of their free row boats to explore the lake. We eventually ended up with the other fisherman casting dry droppers in a shallow creek mouth. Again, very picky fish. The ones we did hook lived up to their reputation. Lots of broken tippet for everyone. We netted one and fought several others. We were amazed at how shallow the water was where they were holding and feeding. They seem to be taking the blue damsel flies that were prolific all day and their larvae. The last hour of the day we fished Sheridan Creek. This was more of an exploratory trip. The fish were there, but not feeding. They had probably been harassed all day by other fishermen while we were in the boat. Next time. Lesson #9: Fish the creek then the lake, and get there early.

July 13th we were beginning to feel the effects of 12 days of fishing and travel so we kept things simple and fished the Gray drake hatch (it is a morning thing only) on HF Ranch Section upstream of Trouthunter Lodge. This lodge is the site of The Last Chance Bar & Grill which was named one of the world’s greatest fly fishing bars by the folks at the well-travelled Yellow Dog Fly Fishing Adventures. It is literally right on the HF River. We ate breakfast here two times and the food was great and reasonably priced. We tried to get dinner reservations, but none were available for more than a week and then only at 9 pm (see odds & ends to follow for more info on dining in Island Park). One or two fish were caught on Gray Drakes this morning. After the hatch ended we went across the street to Lawsons Henry’s Fork Angler (a famous fly shop). We did a little shopping, picking up new wading staffs for each of us, and then had a nice lunch in their deli in the loft above the shop. Our plan for the afternoon was to explore the middle section of the Henrys Fork for good wade fishing opportunities. On our drive, we stopped at the scenic Mesa Falls of the Henry’s Fork. It was another spectacular sight, as you will see in our pictures. It was a huge water fall into a Jurassic Park-looking valley with no “reasonable” way of getting to the bottom to fish. Our next stop was a swimming hole on the Henrys Fork. After a number of days in the backcountry it felt amazing. As we drove thru the small agrarian town of Ashton, ID, we spotted a laundry and were in need of clean clothing, so we took a little break, got cleaned up and enjoyed a frosty root beer from a local drive-in restaurant. The balance of the afternoon we searched for fishing access points that our guide Andy had described. After going up and down a number of field roads in the middle of large potato farms and feeling more than a little lost, we decided to call it a day and head back to Harriman SP an 1 ½ hr drive north for the last night in the yurt. Lesson #10. Go with the flow, take time for a nice lunch, a swim and enjoy the sights along the way. You can’t possibly fish all of the time on a long trip without completely wearing yourself out.

July 14th was a travel day. We packed out of the yurt and loaded up for our 200-mile drive to Bellevue/Sun Valley, ID. But, before we left, we waded into and above the Millionaire’s hole on the Henry’s Fork as it ran through Harriman SP. We had the beautiful, huge (but shallow) river to ourselves for about 1.5 hours. We found a group of trout feeding on top just below an island. A few took our dry flies, but again, no hookups. And now we were running out of time, so we had to leave these fish.

We made it to the Silver Creek Hotel in Bellevue, ID, midafternoon. It was certainly the nicest place in town and since it wasn’t in Sun Valley, ID, proper, it was reasonably priced. We hit two fly shops that afternoon to get advice. Silver Creek Fly Shop was our favorite. Great advice and selection of gear. There were several rivers in the area we had hoped to fish. We quickly learned that the heat-wave and resulting warm water now limited our options. The Nature Conservancy had closed the fabled Silver Creek Preserve, a large downstream section of the Big Wood River was too warm to fish, the upstream section of the Big Wood River should only be fished before noon or after 8 PM, and the Little Wood River was too low to fish.

July 15th turned out to be another day of great adventure. In search of fishable water, we went looking for the Big Lost River. (Google it to learn the reason for its name…it will surprise you.) After all, all the good fishing reports were about the Big Lost River and all the local guides were taking their clients there. The fly shop gave us directions that seemed simple. But, we might have been slightly misinformed about how far and difficult it was to reach. I guess when they asked if we had a 4-wheel drive vehicle, that was our warning. Our black top road quickly turned into a one-lane gravel track along the very EDGE of the mountain as Tim drove for miles up and over a pass. Thank goodness for his high-clearance, 4 wheel-drive vehicle. We needed it. We were navigating with GPS and 3 different maps until the GPS lost its signal and the maps were NOT tracking where we were. Nevertheless, we were enjoying the ride and the beautiful views of this very remote backcountry. Finally, we pinpointed our position and found the Big Lost River. After a little scouting of potential fishing spots, we settled on a beautiful stretch. We both connected with and netted rainbows taking hoppers. What a gorgeous place to fish. Lesson 11: Even when you are lost, great fishing could be closer than you think. Keep looking.

July 16th we decided to wade the fishable areas of the Big Wood River that were close to our hotel. That morning we entered at the Deer Creek Road bridge and worked downstream. We found lots of good water, but we only caught numerous small trout on the perdigon dropper from our hoppers and dry flies. By early afternoon we decided to explore the hotel pool. That was a refreshing choice. But, that wasn’t the end of our fishing for the day. That evening we accessed the Big Wood at Lake Creek Trail. We had scouted this area yesterday and knew where some fish were hanging out. That evening, however, we found this spot was popular with the locals for swimming and dog walking/swimming. That pretty much doomed our plans for the evening. Although we did catch a couple, it became clear this water was too warm and crowded to offer much fish-catching potential. A change in plans was necessary. That evening we decided to leave Bellevue a day early knowing we would have cold tailwater (and better fishing) at our final destination, the Green River. Lesson #12: Don’t beat dead water.

July 17th, we checked out of our hotel and stopped at a great local breakfast place in Ketchum, ID, where we searched online for and booked lodging in Dutch John, UT. We felt very fortunate to find anything as all the resorts, hotels, and campgrounds in all the areas we traveled were fully booked back in April. This was one of the longest legs of our trip. It was 470 miles. We broke up the trip by stopping at the Silver Creek Preserve near Picabo, ID, where we saw hog-size trout rising for microscopic flies in waters that were closed to fishing because of the heat; stopping at Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve that was a vast ocean of lava flows with scattered islands of cinder cones and sagebrush and where (it is rumored) Apollo astronauts trained; and nearly running out of gas miles from anywhere and no cell service because I was busying enjoying the adventure and not watching the gas gauge…details, details. We eventually made it to our little cabin (see the picture) in the campground section of Dutch John Resort. It had two bunk beds, a ceiling fan, a tiny table and two chairs, two small windows, and one outlet. But, it was lodging and right next to the bathroom and shower building. It was so hot that night we went to sleep on top of the mattresses with no covers and both windows open. Sometime in the middle of the night the desert air rolled in, and we woke up freezing. We turned off the ceiling fan, closed the windows, and retrieved our sleeping bags from the car. Lesson #13: Always be ready for a change.

July 18th was our bonus day on the Green River because we left Bellevue a day early. We explored then decided to start fishing where section A and B meet at the Little Hole Day Use Area. Remember Johnny from July 5th? This is where he said to fish. It worked. Jim got a nice rainbow in the riffles just below the ramp. We moved down the river the rest of the day and picked up nice fish along the way. It seemed most came in the faster water. That night we checked in at the Flaming Gorge Resort. It was perfect for fishermen who needed a soft bed and air conditioning.

July 19th was our last day to fish. We met our guide Jeff Taniguchi (435-621-8686) in front of the resort. From the moment we met him, we knew this was going to be a good day. Jeff was clearly a well-prepared, experienced guide and he was excited about the fishing that awaited. Even better, he was a Jimmy Buffett fan! As you will see from the trip pictures, there were many guide boats launching that morning to fish Section A of the Green River, but it all went very smoothly. We started catching small rainbows even while Jeff was getting the boat rigged up. Jeff is a welding teacher at a local vocational school who guides summers and weekends. He will retire next spring with 40 years of teaching under his belt. Spending time with Jeff was a true pleasure. He kept us nymphing in productive water with his great instruction and great boat handling. He continuously changed are flies to satisfy the fish’s preferences. The catching was fairly continual all day. We were catching 16”-19” browns and rainbows, with a couple shorter fish in the mix. I believe our count for the day was 19 fish.

July 20 we headed for Tim’s house. This was going to be another long drive, but still full of adventure. We took the scenic route back on a dirt track thru Browns Park, a very remote area on the Green River where Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid hid out. We left before daybreak and drove through sunrise in the desert where we surprised two herds of elk on the dirt road–one of bulls, one of cows and calves–and a helped a broken-down trucker in the desert (duct tape to the rescue). We planned to fish the Yampa River in Steamboat Springs Colorado. Tim has fished this area a lot over the past ten years and knew exactly where to go. Unfortunately, signs were posted along the Yampa and it was closed to fishing due to the high water temperature and corresponding low level of dissolved oxygen. So, we had breakfast in Steamboat and continued east on our journey up and over Rabbit Ears Pass on US Highway 40 and then north through North Park and the small town of Walden, up and over Cameron Pass then down through the Cache La Poudre Canyon along the river for 60+ miles. This is a beautiful stretch of river which is Tim’s home water. We stopped at a few spots to take in the beauty and talk about a future trip together to fish the Poudre.

It was a perfect ending to an epic trip. We saw magnificent country, soaked in unique experiences, met great people, fished awesome water, laughed hard, and overcame challenges. Lesson #14: Take time to appreciate our Creator’s natural wonders, reflect on the blessings of our families and friends, and deepen our friendship with these wonderful experiences.

Odds and Ends
• Bring your National Park Pass. We used it for admission at multiple sites including the Grand Teton NP, Yellowstone NP, Mesa Falls, and a day use area at the Green River.
• Note from Jim: Bring two forms of identification. I lost my driver’s license somewhere before we arrived at Dutch John, UT. Fortunately, I also brought my passport. That got me through the airport for my trip home.
• If you go to Grand Island and Last Chance, ID, during the height of the tourist season, bring most of your own groceries or be prepared for long waits in the restaurants. The crowds simply overwhelmed the few restaurants in this area as well as the small grocery store.
• Come with your dry fly game ready to go.
• Places in the area to fish next time include Wind River Area, Quake Lake, Hebgen Lake, Teton River, and Silver Creek.
• Don’t plan to fish every day. It will exhaust you.
• Take extra drinking water everywhere you fish. You’ll need more than you think. Also, carry a water purification pump. It saved us more than once.