March 21–29, 2025
By Jim Craig
After a long, cold winter, there’s nothing better than a warm breeze, an ocean view, and the prospect of tailing bonefish on a shallow flat. So, in March 2025, a group of us packed our rods and reels and headed south for a week of fly fishing on the flats of Ambergris Caye, Belize. For us, this was a repeat of nearly the same trip we made in 2024.
Our crew included Matt McClure, Charlie Trankler, Glenn Haake, Kenny Klimes, Jim Craig, and our trusty host from Frontier Angler, Joseph Lema.
Getting There
To avoid any travel delays cutting into our fishing days, we built in an extra buffer day before our check-in at the Iguana House. Thankfully, all our flights ran smoothly. After arriving in Belize City, we hopped on a small regional flight to San Pedro. We spent our first night at the SunBreeze Suites—right on the beach, with just the right mix of sand, sun, and cold drinks to remind us we were officially in the tropics.
Lodging at the Iguana House
Our main base for the week was the Iguana House, a beautiful oceanfront VRBO run by Chris Watters and Mary Alice Hoppe. Unfortunately, Chris wasn’t able to join us this year due to medical issues—we all wish him a full and speedy recovery. Mary Alice held down the fort like a champ. She provided warm hospitality as well as some serious fishing intel. She had coffee ready by 5 AM every day, followed by delicious breakfasts. She then packed wonderful and unique lunches. Glenda, our dinner chef, spoiled us nightly with island-inspired appetizers, cocktails, and creative Belizean dishes for dinner and dessert.
The house itself was ideal—roomy, air-conditioned, and full of charm. We each had our own bed in a shared room with one other guy and private bathrooms. The huge porch was our favorite hangout spot, perfect for organizing gear or unwinding with a drink as we watched the surf roll in. Joseph took great care of all our gear by rinsing the corrosive saltwater off of it every day after fishing. Each morning (usually in the dark) he had our rods and reels waiting for us on the porch. He was a great help on the trip as he also shared his flies, and helped with rigging our rods, not to mention he was a great fishing partner.
The Fishing
We had four days of guided fly fishing and two DIY days. Most of the guided fishing took place from the bow of a panga, sight-casting shrimp and crab patterns to bonefish and permit. When targeting tarpon, we threw big, bold streamers—black and red, black and purple, and chartreuse were the top performers.
Our first day began with Joseph chauffeuring us around in a six-seater golf cart (San Pedro’s main mode of transport) as we explored Secret Beach, had a few drinks, and grabbed lunch before heading to the Iguana House. The next day, we ventured on our own to wade-fish toward Tranquility Bay, stopping along the way to test our casting in the stiff wind.
And wind was a factor all week. As most saltwater fly fishers will tell you, fishing the salt is not easy. The conditions are never perfect—wind, cloudy water, spooky fish, changing tides, too many clouds, etc. But, when you can overcome these challenges, it is a blast! So, you bring your “A” game, and do your best. In the end, the bonefish were scrappy as ever, tearing off on long runs. Our guys landed some big bonefish as you will see in the pictures. Jim landed the only permit of the trip, a beautiful fish that inhaled a crab fly tied by Joseph. Jim’s guide was excellent at spotting these fast-moving, picky fish as they were feeding on the flats. Fortunately, the hook stayed in, and he was able to get some nice pictures.
The Tarpon Show
Floating sargassum seaweed had made its seasonal appearance on the east side of Ambergris Caye before we arrived. It piled up along the shoreline, creating some murky water. While it complicated our wade fishing, it also brought an advantage: tarpon. Big, early migratory tarpon hung out in the stained water, where they can ambush sluggish baitfish without being seen. Our guides knew just where to find them, and several days started with 5 AM pick-ups to chase tarpon at first light.
We saw plenty of rolling tarpon, and while many of them snubbed our flies, a few bent rods. Glenn had the standout moment—he not only hooked one, but fought it all the way to the boat and landed it. Want to know his secret? You’ll have to ask Glenn what the guide whispered to him during the fight. Whatever it was, it worked.
A Mid-Week Break
Midweek, we took a break from fly fishing for a little R&R. Mary Alice arranged for a boat and captain to take us reef fishing. We caught snapper and grouper gear fishing, while Matt had a couple explosive bite-offs on his fly gear—likely barracudas. Around lunchtime, our captain turned spear fisherman, adding a few more fish to our fresh fish lunch taco menu. The captain grilled our fresh catch on the beach at Tranquility Bay, while we wade fished. I think everyone brought fish to the net while we waited for lunch. We then spent the afternoon snorkeling a nearby reef sanctuary. It was a perfect day to relax and take in the beauty of Belize’s marine life.
Final Thoughts
For anyone thinking about making a trip to the salt, take this advice: practice your casting- especially on windy days. Work on that double haul. Be quick and accurate with your delivery. And remember, it’s not a trout set—it’s a strip set, every time.
