Now having taught some 33 fly fishing classes and graduated over 300 members, I am sitting here reflecting on what has turned out to be an unbelievable adventure for me and I hope for you too. I bought my first fly rod, a Fenwick fiberglass rod in 1971 when I attended the U. S. Air Force Academy in Colorado. I have always loved to fish but this was my first time in the fly-fishing side of it. I have never looked back.
Each time I take a “new guy” out I learn so much; things I have forgotten, new ways to teach, and innovative ideas with gear, techniques, and the like. Our classes are so comprehensive that most guys can’t take it all in or remember it all. So, we try to re-enforce what was in class on the water. It’s the best way for “guys” to remember things – by doing! The other thing I try to stress in class is all of the mistakes that I have made so that you don’t do the same – especially with gear. I have learned that you do not want to skimp when buying gear. I always say if you can’t afford a good piece of gear then wait and save a few more extra months to get better quality.
With so many new members coming on board I thought it would be good to go over gear that I find a “must have.”
- First, my precious! You hear me talking about this in class and on the water. The Ty-Rite tool (orange color not red) is my “don’t leave home without it” tool. When it comes to holding small flies and tying small flies this tool is all you need. Yes, we have a discount with Ty-Rite so check your discount sheet for their code. It hangs on the front of my vest – ALWAYS.
- Next you need to have a rubber net bag. A big no to any net bag that is cloth-type material or the like. The rubber net bag protects the fish and will not get your hooks caught up in the bag itself. With the material net bags I don’t know how many hooks I have had to “cut” out of the net material.
- A tippet holder makes it easier to get to your tippet when needed and we always need tippet when on the water. I wear my tippet, in its holder, on the outside of my vest (yes, attached to me) so that I can get to it easily. I see too many guys putting tippet spools in the pockets of their vests – not knowing exactly where the tippet spools are or as they pull out the tippet spools dropping them in the water (lost forever). So, get a tippet holder – horizontal or vertical – your choice.
- Save and spend money on good, polarized sunglasses. Yes, you can go cheap but there is a significant difference (I learned this fishing with Landon Mayer out in Colorado). I have two pair, one for bright sunny days and one for cloudy days. Amber is the best all-around color for sunny days. The ones for cloudy days have a light, yellowish tint.
- When buying clothing gear again don’t skimp. Save your money and buy superior quality clothing. Merino wool socks are a must – more merino in the sock the more it will cost but your feet will love you for it. Underwear gear, both top and bottoms, should be of a good wicking material. I use Under Armor and have each grade – extreme cold weather, cold weather moderately cold weather and so forth. The wicking type material/merino wool has saved my butt several times when I have fallen in during the winter periods! Wear in layers and always bring (especially in the winter) an extra set of clothing in your gear bag.
- I believe cleats on wading boots is necessary, ever since we have to wear rubber soled wading boots here in Missouri (and Yellowstone National Park). There are all kinds of cleats you can add to your boots. The ones that are made for the specific brand of boot or ones you buy at the hardware store. I have even used the same cleats on my wading boots that the ice motorcycle racers use. Overall, it’s best to have cleats on your boots.
- Here is a Biggy – especially if you plan to fly fish outside of Missouri. I can’t emphasize enough about using a wading staff when fishing in treacherous waters. To me the best wading staff made is a Folstaf but unfortunately the company’s owner has retired and is closing the company. You still may be able to get a Folstaf at a fly shop if you check online. Other wading staffs are ok – it’s better than having none at all. Remember a wading staff is NOT a walking staff – they are different. You want a wading staff that can be pulled out quickly and assembles quickly. The Folstaf has a bungy cord on the inside and when pulled out of its holster assembles immediately.
- If you use indicators, it is important to buy ones that can be moved quickly and easily, have assorted sizes and are light and sensitive. I use Oros’ indicators and the New Zealand indicator (yes, the Dorsey indicator is a good one too). Buy several sizes so you can use them with various weight flies or split shot.
Ok, that’s enough for now. How about You!!! What gear do you have that you couldn’t live without? I am sure there is a lot more that we can discuss so let’s hear from you now!
Almost forgot – fly boxes!! If you buy fly boxes then get the ones with silicone inserts not foam. The foam has a tendency to hold moisture and will rust your flies if you aren’t careful. Silicone inserts will not. ALSO, I super glue zerust plastitabs to the inside of my fly boxes to keep the moisture away in case they do get water inside of them. But always, always dry your fly boxes with a hair dryer when you get home from a trip if you have fallen in or definitely got water in your boxes.