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Kenny Klimes
KeymasterUnfortunately most Vintage lures are just “old” lures. I have many too that I bought when I was a boy. Here is an article I found to distinguish between lure of value and just lures. Also, look on Ebay and type in the name of your lure to see what might be the going rate for an old time lure. I think only “lure” collectors will pay the “price” for a special lure.
OLD VERSUS ANTIQUE
The way to start is by ascertaining what era or age you’re talking about. Lures made forty to sixty years ago are old, but very few have significant value. They can well be used to catch fish today if you’re so inclined.
There are some exceptions, however. Certain wooden lures that were discontinued by their manufacturers a few decades ago but favored by anglers were hoarded by those in the know and can still fetch a good buck.
The original Big O, a balsa wood crankbait made by Tennessean Fred C. Young in the late 1960s, is one such lure, and it started the crankbaits-for-bass industry. While plastic versions are still made today, signed and numbered wooden Big O originals are legendary and valuable lures that are now in the collectible fishing lures category even though they’re not a century old.
Another example is the large Creek Chub Husky Pikie made by Heddon. A metal-lipped lure, it was especially popular with muskie trollers. Many were dismayed when Heddon started making this lure out of plastic, so the last wooden models were snapped up by anglers to fish with more so than to collect, although they are now viewed as vintage fishing lures.
The definition of vintage goes back further than the mid-20th century, and truly antique lures are those a century or more old, including some of the first wooden and metal lures ever produced in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Some of these are worth many thousands of dollars, especially if accompanied by the original box they were sold in.
A one-of-a-kind Musky Charmer Minnow was sold in 2018 for $21,000, which is an eye-popping sum until you learn that the most ever paid for old fishing lures was $101,200 for a Riley Haskell Minnow in 2003. Vintage Heddon, Shakespeare, and Pflueger lures are valuable collectibles, but there are many from less well known manufacturers.
A friend of mine, Pat Salimeno, had one of the most valuable vintage fishing lure collections when he passed away over a decade ago. Like most true antique tackle collectors, Pat was astute and wary. He specialized in lures and learned his hobby over decades, finding bargains by doing a lot of pre-Internet legwork. I accompanied him to two eye-opening (for me) sales held by Lang’s Auctions, which is the premier antique fishing tackle auction house, and later sold Pat’s collection. If you sign up with them you can access past auction catalogs and search for previously sold items.
Another source of information is the National Fishing Lure Collectors Club, a nonprofit educational organization which provides member forums and publishes a quarterly magazine. If you become a member you can access their bibliography of educational resources, including antique tackle collecting books. Some such books have become collectible themselves and, though published two or more decades ago, have value for identification purposes if not for valuation of tackle in the current market.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterCheck our FATC calendar. We will be fishing it Tuesday, 12/21 check for our trip report for results. Always check the water levels for outside the park on our website. (I know you do!).
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterGreat story! I too have a bamboo rod that my late Uncle Jim owned. He had a fishing resort for many years back when I was a baby and little boy in Northern Minnesota (near Walker, MN). He didn’t fly fish for trout but would use a bamboo fly rod as he trolled for walleye. I would go with him as a young boy and be amazed how he would catch fish after fish. The fly rod was very sensitive and he could feel those “sensitive” biting walleyes every time. Of course , we ate the best fish in the world to eat – the walleye. I never could catch them like him. But many years after he passed away his sons presented me with his bamboo fly rod. Nothing fancy about it but he truly knew how to catch fish with it. I plan on cleaning it up, maybe restoring it a bit and hanging it in a special place.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterYes, It depends!! Need I say more? Jim, is correct. This is not an exact science. If I gave a “pro” two different leaders with one off by a total of 4 inches, I’ll bet the mortgage he would not be able to tell the difference. AND I hate blood knots! I find them difficult to tie. You can also mark the exact location on the leader with a Sharpie to help you know where you want your knot to be.
Yes, I have made “the” leader in question and fished with it for two days. I used two uni-knots to connect them and I was off on a couple of lengths by one or two inches. I used it on my 4 wt medium taper rod and used small flies to swing. As we found out from Jason later – if it’s windy it may not cast as well and you may have to cut it back to make it shorter and more weighted(?) meaning the 4x end may need to be a 3x end, etc… If you cast heavier flies you may have to shorten the leader to a “heavy tippet” like 3x or more. So to get it exact and be an awesome leader system you may have to play with it whenever you fish and depending on how you will fish – as Jim said – it’s not an exact science.
Also, I used UV thin cure on each knot to form a “tear drop” look and covered them with Sally Hansen’s “Hard as Nails” to preserve the UV cure. This way the knots HOPEFULLY will not get caught up in the guides but “slide” through better.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterHey darodecap,
You may know all that I am going to say and it is NOT from experience at Busch. I have never fished the area in the winter. But for those that are not familiar, each year the MDC stocks many lakes in the STL area with trout. It is catch and release until February and then after you can keep. They stock when the water is cold and then when it warms the trout will die so they allow unlimited keep. Also, only certain lakes in the Busch Wildlife area are stocked. You need to check the MDC website to know which ones are stocked with trout.
With all that said, I have heard from others that fishing at Busch has been tough so far. First, make sure the MDC has stocked your particular lake you are fishing. Maybe, just maybe, they have held back on stocking because the temperatures have been “too warm” so far this Fall. But if the trout were stocked AND because of warmer surface temperatures in the lakes, I would guess that the trout are down deep. So if you are not getting your fly down deep you may be nowhere near where the trout are feeding.
So. I would fish deep by 1) stripping buggers with weight or a sinking tip line or sinking leader, 2) if using an indicator make sure your leader/tippet is long and weighted. Sorry, but since I usually do not fish this area that’s the best I got for you.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterI have a Redington Strike rod, 10 1/2 length, 3wt. It works for me.
October 3, 2021 at 12:32 pm in reply to: What flies are you tying in preparation for the fall, winter season? #22864Kenny Klimes
KeymasterFewer dry flies but generally the same flies we use all year. Since hatches are less then more nymphs and larva – midge larvae, pheasant tails, etc
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterGreat idea. I’m one of those that do not drink enough water when I’m on the water fishing. We need to stay hydrated especially during the summer months.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterPaul,
One guy to talk to about that area would be Tim Graham. He lived in Wildwood, MO but now lives in Windsor, CO. Contact Tim at [email protected]
We will also have a NEW section on our website soon. Locations to fish throughout the United States.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterJoe,
Thanks for that information. We have already had several close calls within our fellowship this year. “Kenny Says” definitely have and use a belt and wading staff. My number one wading staff is the Folstaf Wading Staff – don’t go cheap – get the best! http://www.folstaf.com
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterVery good Tim! I believe it is a Maccaffertium Mediopunctatum. Wow, that’s a mouth full. Not sure of their “locations” so I will dig some more. We did catch several BWOs at Montauk this past week.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterSteve,
Joe has some good recommendations and Lefty Kreh knew what he was taking about. If you are wanting to “feel” the fly then you will NOT catch as many fish as the guy next to you. Especially when nymph fishing if you wait to “feel” the take the trout has already spit out the fly. As Joe says practice by setting the hook more when you see your indicator do ANYTHING other than it’s normal float with the current, i.e. if the indicator slows down, stops for a second, “jiggles” or ANYTHING other than the normal float downstream – set the hook!!
So, dry flies – fast take – set the hook. Slow sipping take then say “God bless America” and set the hook
Soft hackles – I point the rod at the fly with fly rod low, I watch my fly line and 9-10 feet past the tip of my fly line, and I have my fly line just laying across my pointy finger of my hand holding the rod. If I see a rise at the 9-10 foot point (where my fly should be in the surface film) I “lift” my rod slowly. If I see my fly line being “pulled” forward (fish strike) then I slowly lift my rod. If I feel the line being pulled through my pointing finger I trap the line against my rod handle and lift the rod slowly. Each time – fish on!. If it’s a hard hit then I let go of my line allow the trout to take the fly and then trap the fly line against the handle of the rod and lift slowly. With soft hackles if a guy sets hard he will usually pull the fly out of the fishes mouth.
Nymphs – with indicator. Mend, watch your indicator if it does ANYTHING other than the normal flow in the current – set the hook. I have seen many guys that miss fish after fish, never knowing they had a fish that took their fly, because they don’t set the hook on anything other than….. Practice setting the hook on the anything other than …… (indicator slows, twitches, stops, etc…) and you WILL catch more fish than the guy next to you. Also, when nymph fishing you must set the hook quickly. I teach guys to not allow your eyes to see the indicator movement, then tell your brain what it saw, then your brain tells your arm to raise up, then you raise your arm – TOO SLOW. Train your body to set the hook without thinking about it – see it BAM set it!!
Again, if you are waiting for the indicator to go under or “feel a tug” you are missing fish.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterYou are correct in your assumption. Salt water specific fly line is used because of many very hot situations when fishing some salt water areas. Your fly line will be fine. More important than the line will be cleaning your reel and gear with clean, fresh water to remove any salt after fishing.
Kenny Klimes
KeymasterSteve,
Great question since many guys have this problem. First, DON’T BUY new fly line – yet! If you don’t have cracks or breaks in the line let’s do this first.
First, make sure that where the welded loop was or where you cut it off, the line is “sealed”. Take a tiny amount of super glue and add it to the location where the line was cut. This should allow the fly line not to “soak up” water up into the core of the fly line.
Second, clean your line with dish soap like Dawn. Get a bucket of water with Dawn dish soap and a rag. Wash a good 30-40 feet of fly line at a minimum. Be careful not to pile your fly line on the floor or ground because it can get tangled. Ugh
Now, take a Scotch Brite green pad and “scrap” your fly line – again a good 30-40 feet. Just take off a very, very tiny amount of the fly line coating. So you barely see some of the fly line coating on the Scotch Brite pad. The coating is all the same down to the core so you are not taking off a “floating surface” because all the coating is made to float. After you do this I probably would put some fly line conditioner on your fly line again.
Or buy new fly line. With our discount with Woolybugger Fly Co. you can’t beat Rio Gold fly line. The Scott Radian is a fast action rod so you could get RIO Grand (which is a 1/2 wt higher than it’s number – i.e. 5wt line is really a 5 1/2 wt line). I have tried this line with my Sage One (which is fast action) but went back to the original RIO Gold 5 wt line cause I liked the feel better.
Hope this helps!
Kenny Klimes
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