Kenny Klimes

Tim,
Great question that many guys really don’t think about. Here are some things you have to answer first:
1. How fast is the current? Fast current may call for more weight to get the flies in the target zone (besides using beadhead flies).
2. Where do you want your flies to be in the water column? If weight is added above both flies, then your top fly will be closer to the bottom with your second fly riding up higher in the water column. If weight is between the two flies (I use this technique the most) then both flies will be riding near the bottom. If you put the weight last then your flies will ride in the water column as tied but you will know where the bottom is as your split shot drags the bottom.
3. I like an attractor fly as my top fly and a smaller fly as my bottom fly. With my split shot in between the two, I hope the fish sees the attractor fly first and if he doesn’t want it, then the tasty little morsel passes him next.

From Hargroves web site:

Hook: Dai-Riki 060 size 16-18.
Thread: Unithread Camel 8/0.
Body: Red Holographic Tinsel.
Bead: 5/64 or 3/32.
Ribbing: Camel thread.

Slide the bead onto the hook through the small eye port. Mount the hook in the vise and start the thread behind the bead.
Lay a base of thread and return the thread behind the eye. Tie in a piece of red holograph tinsel. {For a size 18 hook bring the holographic material down the bend. When tying short on a size 16 hook end the body between the barb and point of the hook.}
Spiral wrap the thread back to a point behind the eye. Lay a coat of head cement on the body. Wrap the red holographic material forward leaving no gaps between wraps. Tie off the red holographic material and clip.
Wrap the Camel thread down the shank to the end of the body and then back to behind the eye.
The Camel thread is not a ribbing, but is meant to be part of the body. The Camel thread should be closely wrapped, but should allow small spaces where the red holographic material shows through. When wet the red holographic material should be more prevalent.
Tie off and whip-finish. Clip the thread. Apply head cement.
-Reel Up-

Just checked J Stockard online – looks like their Tiemco hooks are now on sale 15% off. GO FOR IT!!!

Well Tim, I’m here now and this discussion has been, how you say, right on. So proud of you guys with your ideas and techniques. As Jim says this is a quandary! Unfortunately, I went to a government school and have no idea what that word means! But that said, tying tiny flies is not only tedious but difficult – but they work!! (check out the latest tips article in our Fly Shop section).

First, the hook is important – how sharp it is, how wide is the gap, how ‘strong’ it is, etc. As you know I love the Tiemco 2499SP-BL. They are a little more expensive but worth it (I buy my from JS Stockard online in the winter months when they go on sale every year).

So here is a list of things to think about and discuss:
1.Wide gap more hookups?
2.Strong hook (heavier wire) won’t lose bigger fish?
3. Use a size 18 hook but tie the fly as a size 20 fly?
4.Barbless hooks versus bending down the barb – which has a longer “hook point” when doing this?(I think it’s the barbless hook meaning the hook is “deeper” in the fish so better hookups).
5. Check the “bend of the hook” is it straight or is there a slight twist to the hook. With the slight twist to the hook – better hook ups? The twist can make it just a little harder for the fish to break loose.
My answers to the above list is “yes”

Great discussion! I have a book that shows underwater what the fish really see. I’ll pull it out and see if it would answer the “does the trout see the hook” problem.
Tight lines!!

• This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by Kenny Klimes.

Bill,
Believe it or not but I just bought a reel last week. It is a Lamson Litespeed Micra 5 reel from Sierra Trading Post (I really like Lamson litespeed reels – my second one). It normally runs $340 but I paid $199. It is factory second but when I opened it up everything was perfect (brand new) except I saw a little (very little) nick on the center piece of the reel. Something I would put into it the first day I use it. Basically new reel for 45% off. They sell all kinds of fly fishing gear. It’s usually the stuff that was taken over by a new design or new packaging, etc. Check them out – at SierraTradingPost.com

I’ve never tried waxing my rod ferrules. I’ve waxed my back – ugh – take that thought out of your mind. BUT, Tim has a good point on joining your rod sections together. I can see where starting from the butt section can make that section near the butt harder to get out when you add force to the upper sections. But, most of the time when I have a section that is hard to separate it’s one of the upper sections.

The pressure on the ferrules? I add the butt first and work up but never tighten my rod pieces – I leave them loose. Then I add my reel and use it to line my guides up on all four pieces. once lined up I then apply slight pressure to secure the four pieces from butt up. Never have a problem with taking rod apart if I do – I buy a new rod.