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F@tcTrout
KeymasterTest Reply

F@tcTrout
KeymasterGreat post, John.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterStag,
If I recall, wasn’t the proper hook selection a key to this technique as well? Was it a straight shank hook with a straight eye? Do you remember?
F@tcTrout
KeymasterI use a Peak and like it. Very solid, and won’t break the bank.
Got great customer service from them the one time I called.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterAnother great way to see first hand what is in our stream is to participate with our Missouri Stream Team. Keep an eye out for date announcements when we head to the streams and see up close, what the fish are eating.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterMaybe Kenny can work out a FATC discount.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterGreat video
Try using the Link option(looks like a little chain) to make your links clickable and easier for guys to follow.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterIt is generally a good idea to pick a few flys you want to tie and buy those materials to start. The choices can be overwhelming. Start on our sites fly tying page. There are videos that show you how to tie. Pick a few that you think you can do and get the materials. One of our sponsors Dooly’s Fly Fishing has a great selection and prices on tying materials. As far as tools Dr Slick makes good tools at reasonable prices. Also Loon and several others work well too. I have one of the Dr Slick sets that I have used since I started. Works great. Just don’t go super cheap. Cheap scissors and bobbins are just that. Cheap and will only frustrate you. A couple extra scissors and bobbins are also very handy. I would suggest before you buy, come out to one of the Thursday’s when we are tying and see what the guys are using. You will get lots of information on what works and what does not.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterThanks for the free plug, Mike. Almost sold out in less than 24 hours. I have 1 spot left.
Bill, this might be a good topic to post in the Fly Shop. Send it to Kenny and see what he thinks.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterThanks for the free plug, Mike. Almost sold out in less than 24 hours. I have 1 spot left.
Bill, this might be a good topic to post in the Fly Shop. Send it to Kenny and see what he thinks.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterThe main difference, at least for the two spey casts we worked on in the advanced class is that a proper roll cast does not change the direction of your line, whereas the spey cast does. So when you are downstream at the end of your drift or swing, and you want to reset upstream 90 degrees or more from where you are, rather than making 2 or 3 roll casts and gradually move up stream, the spey can be used to change your casting direction in one cast. Much more efficient which means more time in the water which = more fish…hopefully.
From the research I have done, there are two types of roll cast, which Kenny mentions above. I have seen them referred to as static and dynamic. Static being the one where the line stays on the water at all times. Pausing prior to the forward or not, the anchor point, where the line leaves the water to form the “D” loop, is next to you or slightly in front of you. The dynamic roll cast actually picks up the line from the water and places it back down so that the anchor point is actually a bit behind the caster. Once the line touches down, you immediately start the forward cast. The idea is if you have a sinking line, or a lot of line under the surface, it brings it all up prior to the forward cast. As you know, roll casting a sinking line that is still sunk, don’t work.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterI like it. Hopefully everyone outside Missouri will see this and think it is this crowded all the time. This will leave the other 364 days of the year for us to enjoy.
F@tcTrout
KeymasterAnother vote for the Korkers BOA system here. Had them the last two years, and they work great. Also helpful for those guys that find reaching your feet not as easy as it once was.
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